I listened to a radio interview, "Dov Charney shames the fashion industry," Q on CBC radio, June 3, 2013. "The controversial CEO of American Apparel calls out other clothing companies for paying what he calls 'slave wages.'" Audio runs 20 minutes.
Here's a quote on local production: "The infrastructure's not always there. I'm very lucky that Los Angeles still has some infrastructure. I own two dye houses which I purchased, I have my own knitting facilities. I am one of the largest producers of textiles in the United States, I am the largest garment producer in North America, and I have the resources to do it. But others will. I was at a flea market here in Montreal on the weekend, and there was at least thirty stalls somewhere in the mile end where people were producing things and selling things themselves. There's a movement to make things yourselves, to own their production, to know the face of your worker, to know how things are made. And it's more efficient."